Installation Guides and Videos:
E-BikeKit Owner's Manual
E-BikeKit Installation Guide
A few KEY POINTS before you get started:
Which way to insert the wheel - The disc brake side (the side with the 6 bolts in it to secure a disc brake rotor) should face the left with the bike forward and upright (you sitting in the seat looking down).
The Universal Torque Arm should go on the side of the axle without the wire.
C-Washers are only included with front wheels and only used if you have recessed quick-release dropouts (where the axle enters the forks). If you don't have quick-release forks then you do not use them.
PLEASE NOTE: The installation videos are currently being updated. Updates will be posted as they are completed. We apologize for any inconvenience. For post-sales assistance with your installation call ....
PLEASE NOTE:
The "Inside Safety Washers" shown in the latest installation videos are no longer used or included with the kit. The latest model hub motor axles have been redesigned and are machined with a larger axle ridge near the hub motor. This latest design eliminates the need for the extra inside washers.
Additional Product Update: The latest model E-BikeKit power wires have been upgraded to a two-prong waterproof and lockable plug. Anderson Powerpoles are no longer used for the power connectors from the controller to the battery. Anderson Powerpole connectors are still used on E-BikeKit chargers and for charging all E-BikeKit made SLA battery packs. Every SLA battery pack from E-BikeKit has two wires now; one for charging and one for connecting power to the controller.
E-BikeKit - Installation - Part 1 - Box Contents E-BikeKit - Installation - Part 1 - Box Contents |
E-BikeKit - Installation - Part 2 - Bike Compatibility E-BikeKit - Installation 2011 - Part 2 - Bike Compatibility |
E-BikeKit - Installation 2011 - Part 3 - Front Wheel Geared Motor |
E-BikeKit - Installation 2011 - Part 3.1 - Front Wheel Direct-Drive Motor E-BikeKit - Installation 2011 - Part 3.1 - Front Wheel Direct-Drive Motor. Electric bicycle conversion kit video from E-BikeKit.com. This is part three in a series of videos demonstrating how to install the latest Model 2011 E-BikeKit Electric Bike Conversion Kit. This video outlines the installation of the front wheel with direct-drive motor. |
E-BikeKit - Installation 2011 - Part 4 - Rear Wheel Geared Motor E-BikeKit - Installation 2011 - Part 4 - Rear Wheel Geared Motor Electric bicycle conversion kit video from E-BikeKit.com. This is part four in a series of videos demonstrating how to install the latest Model 2011 E-BikeKit Electric Bike Conversion Kit. This video outlines the installation of the rear wheel with geared motor. |
E-BikeKit - Installation 2011 - Part 4.1 - Rear Wheel Direct-Drive Motor E-BikeKit - Installation 2011 - Part 4.1 - Rear Wheel Direct-Drive Motor. Electric bicycle conversion kit video from E-BikeKit.com. This is part four in a series of videos demonstrating how to install the latest Model 2011 E-BikeKit Electric Bike Conversion Kit. This video outlines the installation of the rear wheel with direct-drive motor. |
Step by Step Installation Guide - Latest Model Conversion Kit with Quick Disconnect
PLEASE NOTE: The installation videos are currently being updated. Updates will be posted as they are completed. We apologize for any inconvenience. For post-sales assistance with your installation call ....
Step 1 - Make Sure Your Bike is Suitable for Conversion
The E-BikeKit electric bike conversion system is universal and can be used to convert most conventional bicycles. However, there are a few criteria which must be met first.
Your front forks or rear dropouts need to be wide enough to accept the hub motor
Front forks MUST be at least 100mm at the dropouts (where the axle fits into the forks). Rear conversions require 135mm of space between the rear dropouts (this is standard for most bicycles). You may need to use a file to remove the paint form the inside of the dropouts (where the axle enters the fork or frame).
Front wheel conversions MUST use a Universal Torque Arm & C-Washer (when appropriate with certain alloy or quick release forks). Using the "C-Washers", the "Inside Safety Washers" as well as a Universal Torque Arm ensures a safe to install of the front wheels on "non-steel" & quick release forks.
Please Note: The rear motor axles are 12mm diameter and machined 10mm on the flats. Depending on the forks, a small amount of filing may be required to make the dropout slot wide enough to fit the 10mm axle width.
You should always use a Universal Torque Arm with front wheel conversions.
For more information and instructional videos regarding torque arm installation search Youtube for “e-bikekit, torque arm”. Torque arms are included with every E-BikeKit with the exception of the rear geared motor kit. Torque arms provide increased support at the axle and are used to prevent the axle from ever "spinning out" inside the dropouts. Front wheel conversions require torque arms.
Step 2 - Transfer Your Tire and Tube & Install the Hub Motor Wheel
You will need to transfer you’re existing tire and inner tube or a new tire and inner tube to the E-BikeKit wheel. Next you will insert the E-BikeKit wheel into the forks (fronts) or rear of the frame. You may need to use a file to remove the paint form the inside of the dropouts (where the axle enters the fork or frame). After ensuring the axle is flush inside the dropouts you can secure the rim in place. If you have quick release forks with an indented space on your front forks you MUST use the supplied “c-washers” to fill the indented space so that all the hardware is flush. Make sure you secure the bolts tightly and use the supplied universal torque arm to keep the motor from spinning within the fork.
BE CAREFUL: If you apply power and the axle is not secured tightly, the motor will try to turn inside the dropouts, permanently damaging the wires connecting the motor. This is called “spinout” and is not covered under warranty.
Inflate the tire, secure the brakes and flip the bike back over. Re-install and adjust the brakes. The new rim and old rim are likely not 100% the same, so adjust the brake pads so that they engage the rim with full contact. Adjust the cable for enough free-play to keep the brake pads off the wheel during rotation. Electric bikes require more attention and care to brakes since you will normally be riding at higher speeds. Inspect your brakes and brake pads regularly for wear and tear.
Step 3 - Install the Throttle & Brake Handles
Next remove the grips from the handle bars to replace the brake handles (optional use) and install the throttle. The E-BikeKit includes both left and right brake handles with internal magnetic switches that cutoff power and deactivate the throttle when braking. You will need to connect your existing caliper brake inner-wires to the E-BikeKit™ brake handles.
After installing the brake handles, install the throttle. Both throttle types (split-twist & thumb) are included. Which you use will be decided by how you change gears and your personal preference. Simply slide the throttle onto your right side handlebar and tighten in place with the provided 3 mm hex wrench.
Next, connect the throttle and e-brakes (if using them) to the “accessory wire”. Both throttle and e-brake handles are connected by simply plugging in the headphone jack connectors. The accessory wire will then plug into the accessory extension wire and that will plug into the controller (typically mounted near the rear of the bike).
Step 4 - Securing the SLA Battery Pack / Charging the SLA Battery
How you do this will depend on the battery you are using. The E-BikeKit
electric bike conversion kit system will work with any 36v or 48v e-bike
battery pack. The E-BikeKit SLA battery comes in a canvas bag and is
secured to a standard rear rack using 4 Velcro straps located on the four corners of the bag. Simply wrap each of the straps around the rack, pull tight and secure them using the Velcro.
Charge your battery using the supplied 2amp SLA charger. Simply connect the red and black connectors from the charger to the battery pack. The connection should always be red to red and black to black. You should charge your SLA battery shortly after every use and store it full whenever possible.
The charger will have a RED light during charging and be GREEN
when fully charged.
The charger will get warm during charging (this is normal). Do not cover the charger or leave it inside a bag, allow plenty of air for the heat to dissipate.
You can leave the charger plugged in for short periods of time (1-2 days); this will not harm the battery. However, do NOT leave the charger connected to the battery for long periods of time.
Step 5 - Mount the Controller
The controller Can be mounted anywhere on the bike. Typically the controller is mounted near the rack or seat post using zip ties. The controller can also be neatly tucked inside the SLA canvas bag if the battery pack is small enough to allow for it. The controller can be mounted in any position and is water-resistant.
Step 6 - Run the Wiring
For a clean install, route all of the wires toward the back of the bike and secure the wires with the supplied zip ties. Make sure you have full range of motion with the handlebars when tying back the wires and leave some slack at each zip tie.
Step 7 - Connect the Electronics
In the front of the bike from the handle bars you will have the wires for the throttle and e-brakes connected to the accessory wire (3-1), the accessory wire will connect to the accessory extension wire and then to the controller. The other extension wire (thicker) is for the motor. This will connect from the motor and run back to the controller. These are you only two wire that will run the length of the bike. The third wire on the controller has a black and red connector and that is for your connect the battery connector black to black and red to red. If using your own battery you can use the supplied battery wire harness to convert you battery connector and do the same.
When all connections are correctly and securely attached, plug your battery into the controller. There is an on/off toggle switch on the back of the controller. The switch must be in the ON position to operate the system.
Step 8 - Make Final Adjustments & Enjoy
Make sure the brakes are adjusted, the wheel is secure and everything is functioning as expected. With the controller on/off in the on position try engaging the throttle to test the system with the hub motor wheel lifted off the ground. If anything is not working properly call customer service for help.
Electric Bicycle Maintenance Schedule Specifically for Bikes Converted with the E-BikeKit™ Conversion System
All bicycles bicycle require regular maintenance to ensure certain levels of safety and performance. Electric bikes or e-bikes converted with the E-BikeKit Conversion System require even more care since they will usually be ridden farther and faster than a conventional bike.
Keeping your new conversion safe and reliable with scheduled care is easy if you know where to start. The list below outlines what you need to do and how often you need to do it to keep your new electric bike running smooth and safe. This list is intended for average riders or daily commuters. Ultimately the level of care should coincide with the amount of miles ridden and the conditions of those rides. The harder you ride, the more you have to care for your bike if you want it to last.
Your hub motor wheel has been hand-built in the USA by a professional wheel builder with experience building wheels with hub motors for electric bike conversions. Every wheel has been stress tested and broken-in during the building process. This ensures that your new E-BikeKit wheel will be true, round and perfect out of the box.
IMPORTANT: Initial “Wheel Tune Up” – Highly Suggested
Spokes will stretch and wheels will settle and loosen within the first 50-100 miles.
It is highly suggested that you schedule a “wheel tune up” within your first 50-100 miles of riding on your new wheel. Your local bike shop should be able to service your hub motor wheel, tightening spokes and ensuring the wheel is round and true. The extra torque of a hub motor stretches spokes. This is expected within the first 50-100 miles of riding. The initial wheel adjustment is most important. Subsequent “wheel tune-ups” are recommended every 3 months or 400 miles, whichever comes first.
Prior to Every Ride:
- *Check your wheels, especially your hub motor wheel(s) before and after every ride to be sure the spokes are tight and the wheels are solid.
- *Check your fork dropouts and your axle hardware and torque arm. Everything should be tight and secure.
- *Ensure you have proper pressure in your tires – under-inflated tires are hard on wheels. Higher tire pressure will increase the range of an electric bike by rolling with less resistance.
- *Check you brakes, cables and wiring – with the battery on test the e-brakes / be sure no wires or cables are hanging loose on the bike. Wires should be tidy internally, inside a bag or attached to the frame with zip ties.
- *Check your cranks, pedal and derailleur.
- *Make sure your battery is charged and secure and that all connections are tight.
After Every Ride:
- *Look over tires for any damage or puncture objects
- *Turn off your battery or disconnect your battery from the controller.
- *Clean the bike and ensure all the parts are clear of dirt and debris
Once a Month:
- *Completely clean the bike, including the drivetrain if necessary.
- *Inspect tires for wear; rotate or replace if needed.
- *Inspect and lubricate brake levers, derailleur and all cables.
Inspect and check for looseness in the:
- *rear rack mounting bolts
- *battery rack mounting bolts - use thread lock on these if necessary
- *battery rack sliding plate - bend edges downward to ensure snug fit to EBK LiFePO4 Packs
- *e-brake/brake and derailleur cable anchors
- *shifter lever mounting bolts
- *e-brake/brake mounting bolts - do not alter brake centering
- *stem binder bolt
- *handlebar binder bolt
- *seat post binder bolt -or quick release
- *seat fixing bolt
- *crank bolts
- *chain ring bolts
- *derailleur mounting bolts
- *bottle cage bolts
Every Three Months:
- *Wax your bike. A clean, shiny bike always seems to go faster and farther.
- *Inspect frame and fork for paint cracks or bulges that may indicate frame or part damage; pay particular attention to all frame joints.
- *Visually inspect for bent components: seat post rack or double rear rack, seat rails, seat post, stem. handlebars, chain rings, crank arms, brake calipers and brake levers.
- *Visually inspect all your connectors and connections. Make sure all connectors are making contact, rust free and show no signs of corrosion or burning.
Every Six Months:
- *Inspect and readjust bearings in headset, non-electric hub, pedals and bottom bracket (if possible; some sealed cartridge bearings cannot be adjusted, only replaced)
Annually:
- *Disassemble and overhaul; replace all bearings (if possible); and remove and if necessary replace all brake and shift cables. This should be performed at 6000 miles if you ride more than that per year. Commuters who often ride in the rain or mountain bikers who get dirty should overhaul their bicycles more often.
This maintenance schedule is recommended for ensuring your e-bike remains safe and reliable. If you are uncomfortable performing any of the recommended maintenance on your electric bike you should consult a professional for assistance.
Take care of your electric bicycle and it will take care of you.